4/12: Tent Site Near Jones Meadow to Tent Site Near Flint Mountain Shelter

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• Miles 297.0-309.5 (12.5 mi.)
• Total ascent: 2818′; total descent: 3881′

One of my and Rachel’s favorite questions to ask each other in the evening is “What was your favorite part of today?”

Today was one of those days when answering that question was tough not because of a lack of options, but because of a surplus of them.

We crossed the 300-mile mark not once, but three times, according to markers made by hikers using different maps. The official signage tickled us even more: Today’s most difficult section, a quarter mile stretch of boulders, was proclaimed Big Butt. An earlier signpost presented us with Bad Weather Trail and Exposed Ridgeline Trail.

I spent the first half of Exposed Ridgeline Trail loudly wondering why the trail was so named, with piney soil beneath and hemlocks beside, and the second half silently watching my step. It was in that second part that I took the photo of Rachel descending the cliff masquerading as a trail. But the views of Cherokee National Forest’s pink and yellow buds, which look almost like fall colors at a distance, were worth it and then some. Greenville, TN, we suspect by the size and distance from our viewing point, gleamed in a valley below and to the right. 

Today’s long viewing distances were made possible by sunny, dry, windy conditions. But because much of our hike was in valleys, following and excepting the early ridge walk, we were well shaded and protected from the wind. 

Our water sources were also excellent: all close to the trail, running well, and clean of debris. We saw a tire, likely left behind by the silver mine, rotting and deep in the sand, but little other trash. 

We ran across only three large groups today, all of them around Jerry’s Cabin Shelter, where we lunched. A Cub Scout pack, all in blue packs to match their blue shirts and at least one blue mood, left as we entered. With two members of the seven-group that arrived just before us, Tuck and Swift, we talked about the facilities of Erwin, TN, and compared campsite plans. The third passed us going south on the trail, in a narrow area that made chit-chat difficult. 

Also at lunch, I mangled out of impatience an electrolyte drink packet, its contents carried by the wind across our bags and ourselves. Fortunately, little stuck, but it turns out the cherry medicine flavor tastes just as bad when blended with air, and little less strong when twice as diluted in water. 

It could have been a lot worse, and, despite my best attempt to nitpick, it’s about the only hiccup of today. (I should quit while I’m ahead because I have honed that skill more than is healthy.)

In Erwin, we look forward to eating our hearts’ content of Chinese food and Taco Bell, both of which have proven surprisingly hard to find. Equally welcome is the 24-hour laundromat, especially after the single-dryer situation in Hot Springs.

To our diet on the trail, and at a full-service grocery, we plan to add a third grain (couscous, if we can get it; if not, oats) and to stock up on Breakfast Essentials. We both feel better, or at least tell ourselves we do, with a nutrient cocktail to start our day. We’d also love to get out hands on some dried, ground habanero pepper and boullion cubes to spice up our dinners. Rehydrated instant carbs plus olive oil and foil-packed fish covers the macronutrient bases, and is cheap and lightweight, but isn’t even playing in the city that hosts Flavor Stadium. 

Ah, there it is: With my talent for nitpicking resurfaced and before my eyelids overpower my will — another moment that is never far off when not walking — I’m actually going to quit. How perversely wonderful it feels to be exhausted.