- Miles 751.9-767.2 (15.3 mi.)
- Total ascent: 3773’; descent: 2884’
Mid-Virginia is known by hikers to be mentally challenging. The “Virginia Blues” afflict NOBOs and SOBOs, and have a complex mix of causes.
At this point, the trail is no longer new. It has relatively few features or landmarks ahead, at least for NOBOs. Everyone’s body and gear have broken down. The heat makes midday travel difficult and slow, and the bugs become vicious in the afternoon. There’s little cell reception, and because everyone hikes at different speeds, friends made earlier in the trail may be 100 miles ahead or behind.
If the trail teaches anything, it’s that nobody is special. I’ve caught myself just wanting to reach that next shelter moaning about my feet, wishing I could just get a freaking burger already.
In moments like that it’s important to have not just one “why”–though a single strong one does drive some, it seems–but multiple. You need mental anchors you can grab on demand, ideally placed there before you begin your hike.
I’m not sure whether what those anchors are matters. I sometimes see them when I ask people why they’re hiking. They answer it’s to raise money for a cause, to grieve for someone, to see the country, or simply to do something hard.
The singular importance of knowing one’s “whys” might be the best insight of business culture. Although what I’m doing is about as far as it gets from a desk job, it takes about the same number of hours per day and a surprising amount of tedium. Learning to operate outside of your emotional locus is about honing that pivot to one of your pre-placed anchor points.
I found myself falling back on my “whys” a lot today. The trail was hard and hot, and we didn’t finish until 7 p.m. At least two-thirds of the dozen hikers we saw today went to Middle Creek Campground, but we walked on, even when offered a ride by the shuttle.
The reality for was that we’re behind our plan, for which we have just enough food, and need to situate ourselves 1.5 days’ hike from Glasgow, Virginia, where we plan to tent in a town park that caters to hikers with hot showers and charging ports. We’d thought about staying at Stanimal’s, a popular hostel near Glasgow run by a former thru-hiker, but it would be further off trail and $30 per person in a bunkhouse. Hostel bunkhouses can be a bit rowdy, though they are a key AT experience.
The part of the hike we liked best was the final mile, despite being the steepest climb, which we hit after the heat of the day and after someone had cut back the weeds. In the five miles since the last shelter, we gained about 2,500 feet in elevation, averaging just under a 10% grade.
There’s a reason almost nobody who stopped at Middle Creek for lunch made it here, despite the two being under 8 miles away.
Tomorrow’s hike is supposed to be steep as well, but there’s much to be thankful for: fewer total miles, less pack weight, more plentiful water, and a cooler night tonight, which should mean better sleep. My recovery time is noticeably better when I sleep well (The same is true when I eat well, and when I avoid getting sunburned).
I’m as grateful as ever for this adventure, and better than ever at taking care of myself. I don’t have the youngest body or the lightest pack, but I do have deep resolve and a partner here to enjoy the ups and downs with. And if I had to wager, which I do, it’s our combined will that will get us to Katahdin.
