6/23 & 6/24: Rocky Mountain Shelter Campsite to Birch Run Shelter Campsite to Pine Grove Furnace

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• 6/23: Miles 1085.9-1094.9 (13.0 mi.)
• Total ascent; 2152′; descent: 2021′

• 6/24: Miles 1094.9-1106.4 (11.5 mi.)
• Total ascent: 1201′; descent: 1929′

Something, somewhere went to bat for us Wednesday morning. I am sure of it.

In the campsite’s food storage locker–not what I’ve called a hiker box, which often have free food–someone had left a bag of cough drops, a tuna pack, a box of Ramen, and five granola bars.

Sore throat relief would have been plenty, but that haul also meant we didn’t need to go ito Fayetteville, the sort of town that is more trouble to reach than the services are really worth.

Not all trail towns have hotels or sit-down restaurants or laundromats. Shuttling or walking miles to a convenience store can be an expensive and time-consuming proposition.

Instead, with an additional light dinner and breakfast, we made it to Pine Grove Furnace State Park’s general store and grill (apparently parks have those things in Pennsylvania). We ordered ice cream, fries, and two hiker burgers–double cheese, avocado, bacon, egg, mayo, lettuce, and tomato–and bought one day’s resupply. In another eight miles from where we’re camped now, we’ll do a similar meal and light resupply.

I worried I wouldn’t like Pennsylvania, with all its road crossings and state parks. But aside from its severe weather, this state has been very pleasant. The trail is the flattest it’s been perhaps this entire hike. The poison ivy all but disappeared after we left Maryland (though it seems to be making a comeback). In its place are lots of pines, mountain laurel, and mature deciduous trees. And thanks to the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club, which is known among trail clubs to do great work, all the shelters and campgrounds have been stellar. Many of them have multiple shelters on the same site, benches, bear poles, and even, on occasion, running water and flower planters. Word on the street is that northern Pennsylvania becomes much rockier and less maintained.

Turning back to today’s events, we crossed the arithmetic halfway point, and shortly afterward, re-encountered Beetle and Ryan, who is now Pickle Boy. Some trail angel had, incredibly, let them borrow his car for a night and gave them access to a spare property of his. Their plan, I believe, was to hike 26.5 miles to meet that person again for dinner.

I hope I’m not a bad person for finding that stranger’s level of generosity slightly suspicious. It can be difficult to know what’s appropriate caution and paranoia out here. Most people do genuinely want to help, in the same way that most squirrels won’t tear open grocery bags you’re literally holding on a bench. Some off-leash dogs really are as friendly as their owners swear they are, but some are just scared enough of a strange man with big sticks to bite. I want to be less afraid and more open to experiences, but I didn’t come 1,000 miles to be mugged or bit.

The good news is, the only immediate threat to me, my cold, is no longer even that. I slept 12 hours last night, drank my OJ today, and walked one of my shortest days in recent memory. Active self-care really does pay off.

Although external risks are real, it’s self-neglect that poses the biggest threat to any thru-hike. And, come to think of it, probably one’s life and wellbeing at large.