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6/3: Harper’s Creek to Wintergreen Cliffs

  • Miles 837.1-852.0 (12.3 mi.)
  • Total ascent: 4557’; descent: 2795’

Fog extends mornings just like hills extend miles. We didn’t make the time we needed for this morning, which made the rest of the day more difficult. Ultimately, we stopped four miles short of where we wanted to be.

The time wasn’t our only challenge. A bear has visited our original target multiple nights this week. To us, it’s better to walk a few extra miles into town tomorrow than to add to our bear risk in such a dramatic way. Our other choice was to walk beyond the risk area, to a shelter six miles ahead. As much as we wanted to, we didn’t have that in us. 

Because we’re staying further from town, our view is better. After getting our camp chores done, save for hiding the bear cans, we walked back to the rock ledges to watch the sun fall to the horizon and a pink cloud to eclipse a nearby peak. Even after the fog abated, thick clouds hung until the last hour of daylight, when the atmosphere became blue with some gentle greys. 

Another highlight of today was Trail Magic. About six miles back, the AT crosses a road some hikers use to get to a nearby brewery. We didn’t have the time or inclination to visit a brewery, but we were happy to meet Water Queen, a successful NOBO in 2019 and the mother of an active NOBO, Sprite. We quizzed Water Queen about her van while indulging in hot dogs, fruit, chips, and Gatorade. 

We are so excited to buy just 1.5 days worth of food in Waynesboro. Shenandoah National Park has camp stores every 20 miles or so, so we should be able to make good time toward DC. Shenandoah begins immediately out of Waynesboro and ends at Front Royal, the last major town south of Harper’s Ferry, where we will shuttle into DC. 

At either Harper’s Ferry or DC, I’m hopeful I can pick up a replacement Osprey pack. Outdoor companies, including Osprey, are known for their lifetime warranties, and it sounds like the failing lower back mesh is an exchange-worthy defect. 

I could not be more excited for DC, as beautiful as this area of Virginia is. I am trying to live in the moment as much as possible. It’s easy to forget that every day’s hike is something the section hikers out here planned and dreamed about for months. 

Still, DC will be a nice break. Everyone feels homesick out here at times, I am sure, and I have special reason to as today marks three months on the dirty, hot, wonderful trail. It is hard to believe how long, and at other times, how short it’s been. 

We’re told Waynesboro has a Golden Corral and a Chinese buffet. Either sounds like a great way to refuel before one of the most beautiful stretches, but one we’ll need to hustle through. Family, food, and the seat of our federal government, here we come. 

By Bob

Bob is a newly married word herder who's gone looking for himself where anyone who knows him would: in the mountains and around the campfires of America's greatest trail.