4/26: Tent Site Near Spring to Double Spring Shelter

• 

• 

• 

• Miles 441.5-452.2 (10.7 mi.)
• Total ascent: 2375’; descent 2146’

I must have recently upset some wind spirit, probably by cursing the gusts at Roan Highlands. 

Days after a tree almost fell on me, a hickory limb near the porch of my and Rachel’s home fell and broke part of the railing. Nobody was hurt, and the porch seems structurally fine, according to Andy and Tom. 

The weather here in TN was blustery and nearly 80 Fahrenheit at noon, perhaps our warmest day yet on the trail (and tomorrow should be even warmer, with a forecast high of 83). We walked a mix of inland forest and grassy meadows, and particularly enjoyed the blooming forget-me-nots and dandelions. 

One quick detour for an unpopular opinion: Dandelions are wonderful. They look like small suns, nestled in the grass, and smell like summer. They’re edible from root to flower: Some people swear by dandelion tea as a health tonic; others put the leaves in salads. They’re hardier and grow in more climates than most plants I know. What’s so unpleasant about them?

The most exciting part of today came not on the hike, but in camp, where we re-encountered Cindy and Suzanne. After waving at them while on the phone, we were excited to catch up. We exchanged bad-weather stories — the snow in April, the iceflows on the trail near Newfound Gap — and hiker tips. 

They, too, hide olive oil in their meals and mix Breakfast Essentials with instant coffee. They’d heard the same and only the scary bear stories we had. Neither of them had been injured or ill.

The camp we shared we found around 3 p.m., on a hilltop above where we’d planned to stay. Our maps showed good sites on a water trail near the shelter, but they’d been taken. 

The uphill site, to my surprise because it wasn’t on the map, was flatter and all-around better. It had a sitting log, a fire ring, and, best of all, an unopened beer sitting in the fire ring.

After making sure it wasn’t a booby trap, I opened it and discovered why it had been left: it’s the sourest of sours, a beer that actually contained salt in order to cut the acid. Rachel and I “enjoyed” it while building a fire, which we’d sit around that evening with Cindy and Suzanne. 

Tomorrow’s challenge will be scarce water. From here to Damascus, there’s reliable water at the eight-mile and the sixteen-mile mark. We heard one couple comment they were going to night-hike the miles in order to reduce their water needs.

While we don’t want to night-hike, we understand. Water is heavy (2.2 pounds per liter, to be precise). 

Our plan is to “camel” and to fill four of our seven-liter capacity at camp. We’ll then get a full load of water at mile 8, ensuring we have enough to stay at a dry camp around mile 13. The next day, we’ll fill another two liters two miles before Damascus.

It’s not Syria. But if you’re reading, Mother Earth, we wouldn’t mind another spring or two tomorrow.